Standing Seam Metal Roofing For Residential & Commercial Use

Published Dec 03, 20
5 min read

20 Reasons You Need to Stop Stressing About standing Seam Metal Roof 101: What Homeowners Should ...

The setup video above programs a vented ridge cap with RX10 Versavent material that is pre-attached before shipping. Place the ridge cap over the panel and fasten with number twelve sew screws through each rib. Overlap the next ridge caps 6 inches with sealant between the laps. Optionally, you can set up strong or vented Z-bar flashing in between the ribs, and fasten them down with roofing screws.

Likewise, seal the opening in between z-bar flashing and ribs, on each end of the z-bar - architectural shingles. Apply sealant to the rear end of the closure near the ribs and over the flanges to seal spaces. Concentrating on the valley location, the primary step is to put ice and water guard center down the valley.

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Apply roof underlayment on top of the valley flashing. In the installation video you can see the next flashing to be set up, is the WVC-1 valley cleat. You can optionally use a valley flashing with integrated reverse lock, which eliminate the need for valley cleat. Initially, use a bead of beetle sealant tape to the bottom side of the valley cleat.

Attach with number 10 pancake head screws at twelve inch spacing. Now that the valley cleat is installed we're all set to start cutting and hemming panels for the valley. Before setting up the panels position a bead of butyl sealant tape along the eave flashing and on top of the valley cleat as shown.

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Cut the climate guard panel at the suitable angle in length to allow for a one-inch hem at both the eave and valley cleat. This is done by cutting along the rib, so the bending tool can be utilized to finish the hem. To complete off the overlap rib, cut the metal to allow the inside flap to fold over the opening where it can be cut flush with the edges.

When lined up, snap the panels together working from the eave up the run of the panel. Protect the top of the panel with number fourteen mill point screws. To round off a panel at the gable end or side wall, very first determine the width of the panel needed. Many panels will not end as a complete sheet and will require to be cut and bent to make a one inch-high flange as displayed in this image (metal roof colors).

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Partial bends might need to be carried out along the length of the panel for longer runs till the desired bend is attained. If the panel is utilized for a gable end, attach sealant along the one inch high flange, and protect with the WGF-4 gable trim as previously explained. For demonstration purposes in the setup video, the panel is utilized as a side-wall condition with the double WSW-4 flashing.

The method shown will use a J-trim and an asphalt fertilized sealer strip to close off the space produced in between the hip cap and the flat portion of the panel. First place butyl sealant tape in the pan of the panel where J-trim will go. concrete roof tiles. Cut J-trim to the desire shape and place the trim in the pan of the panel over the sealant.

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Utilize one part polyurethane sealant up the back side of the closure near the ribs and over the flanges to seal spaces. If using asphalt fertilized sealer strip as displayed in the leading left panel, lay the strip across the panel and use beetle sealant on top and bottom - concrete roof tiles. When the top of the panel satisfies a wall, it is ended up off by utilizing a closure strip with beetle around the perimeter and embeded in location on the panel.

Place the hip cap down and attach with number twelve sew screws at every rib. Note the bottom of the hip cap was bent down to give a finished look. Returning back to our end wall condition, position the WEW-2 flashing over the closure and screw through the main ribs with number twelve sew screws (metal roof colors).

10 Quick Tips About commercial Standing Seam Metal Roof Installation

If you will be installing a standing seam metal roofing yourself, it is best to purchase products from a regional sheet metal roof provider, as numerous providers have the ability to make your standing seam panels right on a job-site. In this manner you can prevent paying high shipping expenses, and frequently not pay any sales tax.

Installing a standing seam metal roofing is not as simple as it may seem initially. "Yeah", you might believe: "What is there to do? Just set up those panels!". Not so quick, now! Standing seam installation procedure can actually involve a lot of tedious work, so let's cover it in an action by step fashion to see a few of the obstacles it might entail.

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