The installation video above shows a vented ridge cap with RX10 Versavent product that is pre-attached before shipping. Location the ridge cap over the panel and secure with number twelve sew screws through each rib. Overlap the next ridge caps 6 inches with sealant between the laps. Optionally, you can install solid or vented Z-bar flashing in between the ribs, and fasten them down with roofing screws.
Likewise, seal the opening in between z-bar flashing and ribs, on each end of the z-bar - metal roofing supply. Apply sealant to the back side of the closure near the ribs and over the flanges to seal gaps. Focusing on the valley area, the initial step is to place ice and water guard center down the valley.
Apply roofing underlayment on top of the valley flashing. In the installation video you can see the next flashing to be installed, is the WVC-1 valley cleat. You can optionally use a valley flashing with built-in reverse lock, which get rid of the requirement for valley cleat. First, use a bead of beetle sealant tape to the bottom side of the valley cleat.
Fasten with number 10 pancake head screws at twelve inch spacing. Now that the valley cleat is installed we're ready to start cutting and hemming panels for the valley. Before installing the panels position a bead of butyl sealant tape along the eave flashing and on top of the valley cleat as revealed.
Cut the climate guard panel at the proper angle in length to enable a one-inch hem at both the eave and valley cleat. This is done by cutting along the rib, so the bending tool can be used to complete the hem. To round off the overlap rib, cut the metal to permit the within flap to fold over the opening where it can be cut flush with the edges.
When lined up, snap the panels together working from the eave up the run of the panel. Secure the top of the panel with number fourteen mill point screws. To finish off a panel at the gable end or side wall, very first figure out the width of the panel needed. Lots of panels will not end as a complete sheet and will need to be cut and bent to make a one inch-high flange as displayed in this photo (roof waterproofing).
Partial bends might require to be performed along the length of the panel for longer runs till the preferred bend is achieved. If the panel is used for a gable end, attach sealant along the one inch high flange, and secure with the WGF-4 gable trim as previously described. For presentation functions in the installation video, the panel is used as a side-wall condition with the double WSW-4 flashing.
The method revealed will use a J-trim and an asphalt fertilized sealer strip to close off deep space created in between the hip cap and the flat part of the panel. First place butyl sealant tape in the pan of the panel where J-trim will go. roof waterproofing. Cut J-trim to the desire shape and place the trim in the pan of the panel over the sealant.
Use one part polyurethane sealant up the back side of the closure near the ribs and over the flanges to seal gaps. If using asphalt impregnated sealant strip as displayed in the leading left panel, lay the strip throughout the panel and use beetle sealant on top and bottom - the roof. When the top of the panel satisfies a wall, it is rounded off by utilizing a closure strip with beetle around the boundary and embeded in put on the panel.
Place the hip cap down and secure with number twelve stitch screws at every rib. Note the bottom of the hip cap was bent down to give a finished look. Returning back to our end wall condition, put the WEW-2 flashing over the closure and screw through the main ribs with number twelve stitch screws (metal roof panels).
If you will be setting up a standing seam metal roofing yourself, it is best to purchase materials from a local sheet metal roofing provider, as many providers have the capability to make your standing seam panels right on a job-site. In this manner you can avoid paying high shipping expenses, and frequently not pay any sales tax.
Installing a standing seam metal roofing is not as easy as it may seem in the beginning. "Yeah", you might believe: "What exists to do? Just put up those panels!". Not so quick, now! Standing joint installation process can really involve a lot of laborious work, so let's cover it in a step by action fashion to see a few of the difficulties it may entail.